First page of the Torx archive.

Square peg in round hole – what to do?

Posted by is9582 on July 14, 2015 with No Commentsas , , , , , , , , , , ,

I know the title may not represent the subject of this article exactly, but it’s sure awfully close. During my stay in Germany, I helped move some furniture into an old Bahnhof (train station in german), and we were successful with some, but not all.

Many of the old Bahnhofs were built with external stairs, as the only real means for gaining access to the upper floors. In the Bahnhof we were dealing with, these external stairs were in the form of an old castle’s spiral staircase, with the conical roof and all. For anyone who hasn’t ever dealt with a spiral staircase, and moving furniture, there are certain limiting factors. But unlike some of the more current spiral staircases, there wasn’t any open area on the sides, that we could use to let the oversized furniture hang out.

The stairwell is highlighted with a green rectangle, and a red arrow added to help find it better.

The stairwell is highlighted with a green rectangle, and a red arrow added to help find it better.

My daughter and I found a way to coax a full-size box spring for a bed, up through the circular maze, even though it initially acted as if it wouldn’t fit. When it came time for the Queen sized box spring, we knew there just wasn’t enough room, with the contortions we went through on the smaller full-size unit. We still had a go at it, just in case, but it was obviously too large. No matter what we tried, even leaning on the frame in a manner that sounded like we almost broke it in half, were we able to make it go. After the remainder of the furniture was upstairs, and got our wind back, I made a suggestion. Why don’t we just take the box spring apart, and then I can rebuild it again upstairs. My daughter did a quick search and found there was a Queen-sized unit that evidently folded in some manner, to assist fitting through smaller dimensions, but it certainly wasn’t free! The decision was made, so I grabbed all of the tools and headed back down. I’d never taken a box spring apart before, and really not even peaked under the coverings, but I figured it couldn’t be that bad. (Hmmmm)

Even with the longer days in this part of Germany (~4:15am – 10:30pm), after the decision process, we were already getting fairly late in the day. I used my heavy duty Bosch staple remover that I bought at the same time as the Gransfors Bruks axe in my earlier article, and it was sturdy enough to help pull the lighter staples used to attach the material, but the longer staples used to connect wood members were too much. Even so, we shifted away from the slow and exacting tac (read that as methodically pulling each staple around the perimeter, to release the material, and instead cutting just inside the staples), and shifted to the “let’s get this done, before any sound ordinances kick in” approach.

Bosch heavy duty staple remover, with the black handle and extra strong metal bit. Awesome!

Bosch heavy duty staple remover, with the black handle and extra strong metal bit. Awesome!

After almost all of the covering was removed, we started the de-construction process, which was basically pulling apart what we could and using a hammer to “bash” the rest apart. During this process, we tested at multiple stages to see if removing certain parts  might allow it to go through the stairwell. After the second attempt ended again in failure, I knew we had to take it down to individual boards. After we finally finished, we got everything upstairs and we all wiped out.

As some of you might be thinking, I was aware that the same issues would present themselves in the future, when it was time to move from this location. With this in mind, we found a hardware store, and I bought 125 Torx screws that were approximately 1 1/2″ long. I wanted it long enough to solidly connect two of the thickest boards (just over 3/4″ thick) used in the box springs. When initially planning for the screws, I thought 60 or so would do, but opted to double that number when at the store. I just didn’t want to come up short. To my surprise (and relief), even with this doubling of the screw count, I only had 8 unused at the end of the re-build.

While getting the screws, I bought a wireless drill/driver and a few drill bits. I made sure there was a bit that would allow me to drill a pilot hole through each board that would be the “outer” of two joined, to keep these self-biting screws from potentially biting into both pieces, and ultimately holding them apart. During the initial testing at the Bahnhof, I saw just how poorly some drill bits are made, and while I knew this on some level from using drills all of my life, I was somewhat surprised at what happened in the first hole I drilled in the real project.

Two of the boards that run across the end of the box spring, still had a strip of the thicker fabric attached, that the maker used to make the top side durable and I suppose pretty. When the drill bit exited the back of one of these boards, the bit caught in this fabric, and snapped into three pieces! I really couldn’t believe what just happened! (Reminder to always wear your safety glasses, which my polycarbonate sunglasses served the purpose!) There were times in my previous wood/metal drilling, that I’ve made a dumb mistake, and caused a bit to fail, but never anything like this. I wasn’t applying any side forces, or trying to change the entry angle, to make it a right angle or anything like that. So, with that in mind, you can imagine how cautious I was with the remaining 116 or so holes I needed to drill. Fortunately, the next larger size was still small enough so the head wouldn’t pull through the wood, when tightened.

Now let me go back to where I was going with this article. Since our deconstruction process took on a “go, go, go” attitude to meet the sound ordinance, almost all of the staples (long and short) were still in some of the boards. Some of the long staples were driven so their head was almost 1/8″ below the surface. I used a small hammer on each of the legs, to drive it out far enough, so I could grab the head with vise-grips. Even with the staple’s head now protruding, it still took a fair amount of time and effort to get each staple all the way out. The short staples used to hold down the fabric were much easier, and felt like they just jumped out, compared to the heavy-duty long-legged staples.

The staple pulling went on for a couple of days, using the spare time between all other activities, and I could see I was likely to run out of time, if I tried to get every single staple out. Plan B: I looked at all of the boards, and where they would interact with the others, and on most of them there was enough room for two screws, around the existing staples. So, for these that had enough extra room, the staples stayed, but I broke the long legs off flush with the underside of each board. If there was anything still protruding, I just gave it a quick tap with the hammer. If it happened to lift above the surface, I pulled it out, and all was good.

When I started the actual build, I placed each board in it’s position, and marked for the pilot holes I’d drill on the outside board. While marking the placement of these holes, I also visually aligned the boards so they were either square, or parallel, depending on which I referenced. I didn’t have a square, and I know I could have made one using mathematics, but the eye be pretty darned precise once trained. I also had the side benefit of the original staples’ holes, and it looked like they might have sprayed the unit with a wood sealer, after it was built. There was a very light color difference showing how things overlapped each other, but I had to remember that each board may have been in a different location, since they seemed interchangeable enough to not spend the extra time during the de-construction. When I was working with the longer boards, I lightly drove one screw at each end, to keep the intended shape, and once happy, sank them tight. Only after that, did I install any of the screws along the length. It is too easy to pull parts out of alignment, even if by just a little bit, so that the whole doesn’t look right or just won’t go together.

Box Spring partially re-built, but already very rigid and strong.

Box Spring partially re-built, but already very rigid and strong.

Each connection got two screws, and for the most part, I used my left hand as my vise. It wasn’t until fairly deep in the build that my Son-in-law asked if I wanted to use a specific tool to clamp some pieces while I drilled. This tool is somewhat like a vise-grip, but it has a jaw that can move into four positions, allowing for holding parts from thin to very thick. Doh! There were a couple of connections where the board wasn’t quite as flat as would be ideal, so I did use this “clamp” to keep things from moving. Great idea Scott!

These grips have a lower jaw that can fit into any of the four grooves, and has a wide range of holding.

These grips have a lower jaw that can fit into any of the four grooves, and has a wide range of holding.

During the de-construction, there were a couple of boards that either lost a little integrity, or bit the big one. Really the nature of the beast when trying to get something apart, that was never truly intended to come apart. One specific board, was one of the four long main frame boards, and a 1/4″ section of wood stayed under the staple after the board was removed. This board had a curve cut on each end, so the box spring didn’t have a sharp corner. After looking at it for a bit, I flipped it over, and end for end. This gave me enough solid wood at the place where it needed to connect, and we didn’t need to go looking for a piece of wood. One other is of note, and somewhat important. One of the boards that crosses from side to side, to help prevent any of the mattress from sinking down into the box spring, broke with a very light touch, at a knot in the board. Probably never should have made it into the original build, but it also may have felt sturdy enough to not matter. Well, the nature of this break was complete and all the way across the board, so there was no repairing this baby. I looked over all of the other similar pieces, to make sure they were all solid, and luckily they were. So, rather than trying to sprint about 30Km, to get one little piece of wood, I instead shifted each cross piece slightly, to keep an even spacing between each one. The spacing between each cross member grew very slightly, and it will still work solidly.

After all of the screws were installed, we again had a super stiff box spring, that will work wonderfully until it is time to move. At that point, the screws are removed, the boards are transported down the stairs to an awaiting abode, and then screw it back together. As a decision was made to leave the box spring uncovered, it will be simple to deconstruct and I believe they may just use the open space as a little bit of additional storage. Houses in Germany are notorious for lack of built-in storage, so it is space well used.

Box Spring complete and ready for action.

Box Spring complete and ready for action.

Box springs aren’t the most expensive piece around, but if you weren’t already planning to drop some extra $$, you can always do this yourselves. It certainly isn’t rocket science, but does require some focus and some work. I hope this might just help you, if you need to find a way to make your’s fit where it wasn’t meant.

Thanks as always for checking out the article and please let me know if you have any questions or comments.

Lee Laird

Wall storage – continuation

Posted by is9582 on June 25, 2015 with No Commentsas , , , , , , , , , , ,

Ok, so in the last storage article, I left you with four of my bench planes securely stored on the plywood that I will mount above my work bench. I started looking at the tools I use regularly, to see what I wanted to go on the board, and where.

On the lowest portion of the board, just to the left of the mentioned bench planes, I decided to create some storage for some of my block planes. Three of the four selected are Lie-Nielsen (LN) tools, which are always a joy to use. I chose to include my LN 60 1/2, LN 60 1/2R, LN 102 and an old Stanley #60 1/2 I modified into a #18. I used some of the same mahogany in the horizontal plane, with a strip of pine below it, to cause the upper material to contact the planes as needed. I planned to include some narrow wooden strips in between each plane, in the toe region, so they wouldn’t accidentally make contact with each other, as well as an alignment aid. During the layout process of the planes, I included the extra dimension for these strips, so the spacing didn’t get too tight. On most of these block planes, the iron’s adjuster stands proud, so I cut a relief where this would fit. The rear of these planes, and their rear side rails, also slid under the raised horizontal section. This kept them very secure, yet it required very little effort to remove and replace each plane. The horizontal strips, as well as the positional strips, were attached with self-tapping screws. Pre-drilling the holes in strategic locations allowed me to pre-load a screw into each hole just enough so the tip was barely proud, and with them in the desired location, give each screw a sharp “tap”. This made keeping the strips where I wanted them, much easier, as the tips of the screws each had a “home”.

Notches cut for the #18 (blue), 60 1/2R (red), and 60 1/2 (red). Notch for #102 has yet to be cut.

Notches cut for the #18 (blue), 60 1/2R (red), and 60 1/2 (red). Notch for #102 has yet to be cut.

On the Stanley #18, the rear structure is a bit different, having an adjustment disc that lays horizontally, as well a lateral adjust lever. The adjustment disc sticks almost the same amount as the other adjusters, but it is a bit more wide than the other adjusters. This block plane was just as easy as the first two. The LN 102 is a bit different, even though it’s smaller size adds a new wrinkle, where the iron also engages the horizontal board. This required the layout to also include space for the rear of the iron to fit down into the mahogany strip. This was easy enough to accomplish, but just required taking a good look at how the plane would interact, and making modifications to accommodate.

Closeup of four block planes, and the #102 (far left) has a red arrow for the cutout around the iron, and the blue for the deeper cutout for the adjuster.

Closeup of four block planes, and the #102 (far left) has a red arrow for the cutout around the iron, and the blue for the deeper cutout for the adjuster.

Above the block planes, I decided to make storage for my LN 4 1/2, and two old Stanley #3 planes. You might wonder why I’d use the space for two of the same type of plane, but one has an iron that has a very slight camber, while the other’s camber is more pronounced. The #3 is an easy plane to fall in love with, as it can get into areas that most other easy-to-hold planes (Ok, I’ll hold out judgement until I can get my hands on Chris Schwarz’ #2) might struggle. Similarly to the way I handled the block plane storage, I used the same horizontal Mahogany strip material, but instead of making room for the iron adjuster, it required space for the rear of the plane and tote. I again used the strip of pine to elevate the Mahogany, to better integrate with the planes (or so I thought; more later).

Getting started for the smoothing planes. Hand drawing the upcoming cutout for the 4 1/2.

Getting started for the smoothing planes. Hand drawing the upcoming cutout for the 4 1/2.

All three tote cutouts drawn, and cut down slightly with the LN crosscut saw, to have a good start for the Knew Concepts.

All three tote cutouts drawn, and cut down slightly with the LN crosscut saw, to have a good start for the Knew Concepts.

Sections removed after finishing the cuts, and rasps used to finalize shapes.

Sections removed after finishing the cuts, and rasps used to finalize shapes.

Earlier board with smoothing planes added.

Earlier board with smoothing planes added.

I also decided I wanted to use some like-sized material as separations/alignment between the toe regions of the planes, but I’d already used up the length of pre-dimensioned material I had, on the earlier planes. I only need four small sections, to help protect and retain these three planes, so I chose a piece of Maple I had in the shop. It was easy to take my fingers and pencil to the earlier used material, to get the width dimension, and then transfer it to the Maple using it like a fence. Since the Maple board was somewhat small, and not too thick, I decided to rip out the small strip with my Ryobi (Japanese two sided saw). I held the board in my face vise, with a small portion projecting above my bench, so there would be less vibration. I slid the board out a few times, again working down close to the bench, and repeat. When I’d just passed the half-way point on the board, I flipped it over so the already cut portion was held in the bench vise, and repeated the sawing procedure until the cuts met.

Maple board I used to create the narrow separations for smooth planes.

Maple board I used to create the narrow separations for smooth planes.

I followed this sawing with my shallow cambered #3, just to remove the saw marks and have a smooth surface. When it is so easy and quick, to remove the saw marks and make it flat, why not? Even if this isn’t a final storage solution, or a piece you’re making for a customer, I believe it is a good habit to form. After this quick planing, I cut the strip of Maple into four equal length sections, and then pre-drilled for the mounting screws. I am using self-tapping screws, but some woods still work better with these screws, and if you don’t pre-drill there are times that the attached piece(s) won’t ever completely seat against the base wood. This latter scenario is often related to screws that have threads the full length of their shanks, but it is good to know potential pitfalls.

The narrow maple separations added between the toe sections of each smoothing plane.

The narrow maple separations added between the toe sections of each smoothing plane.

There was still room to the left of the block planes and smoothing planes (4 1/2 & 3), so I decided to make some storage for some of my spoke shaves. I used some Pecan that was just over 2″ thick, around 12″ long and 2 1/2″ wide. I drew my layout onto the front edge, and chose what looked like an appropriate downward slope, to help retain the spoke shaves on the wall. I based my choice of forstner bits, on the width of each needed slot, to allow easy placing and removal of the spoke shaves. With all of the layout complete, I was off to the drill press, to drill all the way through the blank, at each of my design points. Next it was on to the band saw, where I made cuts that followed the slope lines I drew earlier. I cut each end of the blank, so it was square, and left about 2″ extra on each end. I also removed a section from each end,  reducing the thickness so the intended screws would work to mount it to the board. Lastly, I set the fence on the band saw, so the blade was centered on the blank, and cut it lengthwise into two matching pieces. I put each of the two pieces into the face vise of my bench, to hold while I pre-drilled the holes for the screws. Like before, I again pre-fed the screws into the holes, for the “tap”. Once the first side was mounted, I used a block under the second side, to hold it exactly the same height as the first. With it in the correct vertical orientation, I held my spoke shaves up to the openings to determine the optimum spacing between the two segments. Once located, I repeated the screw “tapping” and drove all of the screws home.

Final wall layout, with spoke shaves added.

Final wall layout, with spoke shaves added.

With the board still on the ground in my shop, but leaning against my bench, I could test to see what mounting slope would best keep the tools in position. After measuring the distance from the board, to a vertical reference, I chose two boards to prep. I set my adjustable square to the same angle as the board was resting, so I could transfer to the mounting boards. I planned to mount the storage with two boards that would span across two studs in the wall. I cut and planed both boards, down the the sloped lines I created with the adjustable square. I picked up two heavy-duty Torx stud bolts, for each of the mounting boards, and I pre-drilled for these while also creating a recess for the heads of these bolts. I used my Makita cordless hammer-driver to put these bolts into the studs. This seemed to work so much better than the regular drill-driver.

Lower horizontal mounting board, with lines drawn to show needed shaping. Corner planed away, to one line.

Lower horizontal mounting board, with lines drawn to show needed shaping. Corner planed away, to one line.

After both of the mounting boards were securely in place, I removed all of the tools from the storage board, and drove smaller Torx screws through the storage board, and into the mounting boards. This made for a super strong and secure storage board.

I started putting the tools up onto the board, and monitoring to make sure everything was behaving as expected. All was good until I got to the #3 planes. The horizontal board was a bit too tall to directly interact with the rear edge rails on these planes, even though it was perfect for the 4 1/2. I plan to place some small spacers on the underside edge of this board, so it will contact these rails. Even with the extreme measuring I made, during the process of choosing the slope, it seemed the slope changed just enough to reduce gravity’s function against the storage board. Since the two #3 planes are the only effected tools, I’ll see if the modification I mentioned will suffice. If it doesn’t, I’ll remove the storage board and add some material to the lower of the two mounting boards, in effect, increasing the slope.

Storage board attached to wall, with most tools in place.

Storage board attached to wall, with most tools in place.

Even with this minor snafu, it has been great to have these tools at close reach and not getting all of the shavings covering them. As there is still space on the storage board, I’ll likely look to add at least a few chisels, squares and marking tools. These are some of the most commonly used tools for me.

Thanks for stopping by and checking out the article. As always, please let me know if you have any questions or comments.

Lee Laird