I don’t have enough time to write about this subject tonight, but I’ll see if I can make some time in the next couple of days. I thought I’d toss out one photo I took today, of a post/beam that is inside my Daughter and her husband’s “house”, which has a ton of character and all sorts of things to tell the observer.
I’ll post more photos, as well as telling about some of the interesting aspects of this structure, as well as sharing a photo or two of the great outdoors. Please check back by, to see some cool stuff.
I took my small handsaw with me the other day, so I’d be able to adjust the size of some small boards, while on site. I hadn’t used this particular saw in quite a while, so I was a bit surprised when it seemed quite dull, during use. I finally had some extra time with which to give it a fresh sharpening today. Even though I had some time, I wasn’t sure when it might evaporate, so I completed the sharpening, without getting a single photo. Dang it. I hate it when that happens.
Well, I jointed the saw teeth (for those who may not have heard that term used on saws before, this is where a medium flat file is placed so the file is running the length of the saw, while also being perpendicular to the saw plate), which only took two passes the length of the saw, providing me a bright little flat at the tip of each tooth. This saw is a cross-cut saw, so it just requires paying a little more attention to some details, than a rip saw. On cross-cut saws, the outside portion of each tooth is like a knife, that helps sever the wood fibers. It is up to the user or sharpener, as to how much angle is on the edges of these teeth, which translates to holding the triangular sharpening file off of perpendicular (relative to a rip saw, where the file sharpens at 90-degrees to the front/back of the saw teeth), which works the front edge of one tooth, while working the rear edge of another tooth. Being right-handed, I like to start my filing (with the triangular file), with the first tooth set towards me (at the heel of the saw), on the left side of my file and the next tooth (which is set away from me, and away from the heel) is on the right side of my file. The flats I made earlier, on the top of each tooth, when I jointed, will help me sharpen so all the teeth are the same height. This will help them all work equally, and the sawing will feel very consistent. Since each tooth is filed from two sides (front and back), at different times, it is important to only remove half of the flat on each tooth, during the first pass. The second pass, which places the file angled in the opposite direction, will remove the remaining half of the flat on the last stroke. So, don’t take extra strokes after you see the flat disappear, or you will have made a tooth lower than the rest, and it won’t carry it’s share of the work.
Since the saw is a fairly small handsaw, it doesn’t have huge teeth, but it took me three strokes on each side of the teeth, to end up with no flat. It is amazing how when you just very lightly touch the teeth, they feel like a bunch of little needles, when freshly sharpened, which is probably a good time to mention being safe with sharp tools. Actually, as long as the user knows what part is sharp, and respects that, it is much safer to use sharp tools than dull tools. Some may scratch their heads at this statement, but when a tool starts to dull, it requires more effort to do it’s work, which can lead to injury. When working with a sharp tool, it is easy to let the saw do the cutting with you just moving it back and forth, and chisels can remove wood as if it was butter. Much safer, and easier to control the handling of the tool when sharp. So, stay sharp and be safe with your tools.
Thanks for stopping by and checking out my article. Let me know if you have any question, comments, or would like to know about anything specific.