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A watch for a saw vise?

Posted by is9582 on March 12, 2015 with 2 Commentsas , , , , , , , , ,

I tweeted late last night a photo of what might look like the newest wooden watch prototype. Well, I’m hear to tell you I’m in no way trying to test my entry into the watch market! Haha. In actuality, the photo (shown below) is the 3-D cutout, from a block of maple, that will be the knob for my new Saw Vise. This will allow me to both tighten and loosen the nut, without the need to retrieve any tools.

After making cuts on my blank at the band saw, it reminded me of an old Seiko watch I had in the '70s.

After making cuts on my blank at the band saw, it reminded me of an old Seiko watch I had in the ’70s.

I inserted the nut into the opening, to give an idea of use.

I inserted the nut into the opening, to give an idea of use.

I started out with a block of maple that was about 4″ long x 2″ wide x 1 1/2″ thick. I looked for a piece this thick, as my intention was for my knob to fit over the metal nut, and have the two “legs” sticking up from the body, around 30-degrees or so. This would make it easy to get a good grip and not have the fingertips close to contacting the vise’s leg.

I made a center mark, for the location I would drill out waste, and then followed with all of my layout marks on the block. I measured the maximum size, across the flats of the metal nut, so I could determine what size forstner bit I could use without lessening the contact of the wood to the nut. When I translated the decimal value on my digital calipers, it turned out an 11/16″ forstner would be just about perfect. I took the blank to the drill press, and drilled deep enough so the nut would sit down just about flush, in the knob. Now it was back to the bench.

I placed the nut so it was centered over the 11/16″ hole I’d just drilled, and while holding it tightly in place, scored around it’s perimeter. I went back over the initial marks, until they were a bit deeper, and then chose a chisel that was about 1/16″ less than the length of one of the nut’s flats. I lightly chiseled straight down, all the way around the hole for the nut, repeating this until I was at the bottom. Since I drilled out the middle of this area, this went amazingly fast, and the chisel want to dive away from the center. I tested the nut, which didn’t just slip into place, but required some heavy thumb pressure to seat. With a couple of sharp hits against a cushioned board, the nut worked back out, which was exactly what I was looking for. Time to shift back to working on the exterior portions of the knob.

I took the blank over to my band saw and followed my layout lines on the angled portions of both legs, and then in the other plane, along the legs and around the body shape. I didn’t think the band saw was going to be my friend, working on the excess stock removal, between the angled sections of the legs. Instead, I used my Knew Concepts fret saw (still need to pick up one of his coping saws), to remove this somewhat awkward section of wood. It took a bit longer than I’d have liked, as I didn’t have any blades with teeth that were more coarse, but it still did a great job.

Side shot of knob, straight-from-band saw, to better see the shape.

Side shot of knob, straight-from-band saw, to better see the shape.

With the rough shape in place, I again put the nut into the knob, and tested it on the saw vise. The bolt came into contact with the wood at the bottom of the nut hole, using the hole from the tip of the previous forstner bit, so I made a note to drill in from the opposite side with a 1/2″ forstner. This is the same size hole I drilled through the body of the saw vise, for this bolt.

I cut the four little “ears” away from the part, again using the fret saw, this time extremely quick as it was more akin to cutting waste between dovetails. The rest of the exterior was shaped and cleaned up with spokeshaves, Auriou rasps, files and then some fine grit sandpaper.

Leftover end on one leg, marked to final dimension.

Leftover end on one leg, marked to final dimension.

One of the “legs” on the knob went all the way to a fine point, and I planned to cut it back to match the other “leg’s” more blunt shape. As I was going into the shop to cut this little section, an alternate solution came to mind. I setup my No. 51 Shoot Board Plane and the shooting board on my bench, along with a small scrap-wood spacer, since the shape of this knob doesn’t allow the leg to get support from the fence. So I “nibbled” away at the knob’s leg, until I just left my pencil line.

Using my Lie-Nielsen #51 to perform what might seem like an odd operation.

Using my Lie-Nielsen No. 51 to perform what might seem like an odd operation.

Knob after the shooting board.

Knob after the shooting board.

Knob with shavings from #51, to give an idea of the number of passes needed.

Knob with shavings from No. 51, to give an idea of the number of passes needed.

I chucked the 1/2″ forstner into my cordless drill, and removed the waste, from the center of the knob’s hole for the bolt to fit through. Even though that was the “perfect” size for this bolt, I still decided to used a fine round-file to give just a bit more clearance, and hit the inside edges with some sandpaper. I also went back over all of the knob with some 320-grit sandpaper, and followed it up with some Danish Oil.

After the Danish Oil dried, I mixed up a little epoxy, with which to glue the nut inside the knob. To help the gluing process, I scuffed up the outside surfaces on the nut, with some coarse sandpaper. I pressed the nut home and let it sit, until it was dry.

Late last night I put the knob/nut unit into place on the Saw Vise, and I really like the look.

Knob, with nut epoxied in place, installed on saw vise.

Knob, with nut epoxied in place, installed on saw vise.

I want to thank you for checking out the article, as always. Please let me know if you have any questions or comments, and I’ll do my best to get back to you quickly.

Lee Laird

Knew Concepts Fret Saws

Posted by is9582 on April 11, 2012 with 2 Commentsas , , , , , , ,

I’ve enjoyed making pieces with hand-cut dovetails for many years. When I first started out, I used my chisels to gradually evacuate the wood between the tails and pins. After using this technique on a couple of pieces, I recognized just how much time I seemed to be wasting. I shifted over to using coping saws, but it was hard to find blades thin enough to readily fit down into the kerf left by my dovetail saw. From there, I moved to a fret saw, as they have blades that easily fit into the kerf, but I had a hard time finding any frames that held the blades rigid enough. After snapping blade after blade, I was wondering if there was anything that would do what I needed.

Enter Knew Concepts Fret Saws. I ordered one of their 5″ Aluminum versions. I used it for a couple of weeks, and it really surprised me just how well it worked. Not a single broken blade. One of my friends, Chris Schwarz, had one of the 5″ Titanium versions, and let me try it, so I could compare the two properly. After using the aluminum version, and with me rating it so high, I didn’t think there could be enough difference to warrant the titanium version. Am I glad Chris let me try his saw. The titanium and aluminum versions were like night and day, relating to rigidity, while the weight was very similar. The titanium version is 5.2oz vs. 4.9oz for the aluminum version.  Oh, and for anyone curious, I now have the titanium version in my kit.

Titanium 5″ Saw
Aluminum 5″ Saw 

It sounds like that would be the end of the story, and I’d have purchased their saws even if there were no additional features, beyond their super rigid frames. But Knew Concepts still have much more to offer. They have a cam-lever that both applies and/or releases the tension on the blade, with a very short throw. Next are the blade clamps, which have three positions: 90 degrees which is oriented like most fret/coping saws, 45 degrees Left and 45 degrees Right. With the 90 degree orientation, a wide board will limit just how far in from the edge it will work, before the distance to the saw frame prevents any further work. The 45 degree orientation allows the blade to cut on the tail shoulder line, while the frame is tilted up enough to prevent it from contacting the board, no matter how wide. With the two different 45 degree settings, it works equally as well for Right-handed as Left-handed woodworkers.

The most recent update is adding exotic wood handles, via Elkhead Tools. They are offering handles made from cocobolo and I have to say they are beautiful. I may just have to add one to my new titanium addition. I guess time will tell.

Cocobolo handle on Aluminum Saw

Let me know if you have any questions.